How a build goes

We remove and catalog every piece until we can't unbolt anything else. Engine, transmission, dash, interior, wiring, trim, lights, all of it comes out. Old paint comes off with a sander. Undercoating and seam sealer are scraped off by hand in preparation for sandblasting.

The body then goes onto a rotisserie and is sandblasted to remove rust, old body filler and remaining paint. Remaining media is cleaned up, and epoxy primer is applied to all bare metal to seal it off.

Rust repair is always a major concern; luckily it's something we excel at. Even when no reproduction patch panels are available, our metal fabrication team can hand-form perfect steel patches from scratch that look just like original sheet metal. We also work lead to recreate the seams between panels that were filled that way by the original manufacturer.

To check and adjust panel fitment we reattach all the sheet metal (doors, fenders, hoods, trunk lids, valance and cowl panels). Where needed we modify panel gaps by welding, grinding or reshaping panel edges so everything sits flush with proper gaps.

Rebuilt or replaced to be better than new. We can upgrade the brakes, replace fuel and brake lines with stainless steel, install better control arms, add power steering, lower a car, fit coil-over shock upgrades, install stronger rear ends, add posi-traction, four-wheel disc brakes and sway bars.

Dents are straightened and body filler applied where needed. We prep, mask and apply polyester primer, then block sand the entire car through three grits. We repeat the process with urethane primer and block sand through three grits again.

At the second stage of blocking (320 grit) we invite the owner in for a wipe-down. The car is wiped with wax and grease remover and the owner sights down the body to check its straightness. We point out any flaws or waves we see, and the owner decides which of them to take care of with more blocking and priming.